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Using green manures in beds that are empty at the end, or very early in the growing season is a great way of keeping weeding to a minimum, plus helping to improve soil structure and nutrients.


With the various rotations in the Mill Gardens we often sow different types at various times of the year; Forage Peas, Italian Rye, Phacelia and Clover are all easy to grow and have numerous benefits. They can be cut and dug in to the beds before sowing starts in the spring or removed and composted depending on the season.


Phacelia tanacetifolia is fast growing and has the added benefit of very attractive flowers which bees and butterflies love, followed by twisting seed heads, we sow this in late summer/early Autumn and again in the spring. Red & White Clover are also great for insects and look very ornamental when in full flower.


Forage Peas are sown in late Autumn to overwinter, part of the Legume family of plants the roots have small nodules which form a symbiotic relationship with Nitrogen fixing bacteria, this allows them to “fix” Nitrogen creating a natural plant food.


Different green manures can also been sown together to combine their benefits, Tares is a form of Vetch & Rye Grass can be mixed, either by sowing together or Rye first in the autumn then Tares broadcast over the top in the spring.


More info on the benefits and how to grow Green manures can be found on the RHS website.

Last spring our hives were moved to a new location in a small wild flower meadow, with the help of a local bee keeper we now have two very healthy colonies that are thriving. Now the weather is warmer work has started to get our first crop of honey.


Over the winter months the bees cluster together to keep warm keeping the temperature inside at around 25 C, feeders containing a mixture of sugar and water are sometimes placed in the roof to provide extra food. They use a mixture of saliva, beeswax and plant resins call Propolis to seal the hive, as the weather warms up in spring the hives are opened and checked.


Colonies in winter are typically made up of 10 – 15,000 bees, this rises up to 50,000 in summer. With the hives opened the frames are all removed and checked, a smoker is used to make the bees go down into the hive while they are being disturbed. Queens are marked with a small blob of bright paint on their backs so they are easier to find.


Both the hives are now full so extra boxes called “Supers” are placed on top, a yellow plastic excluder is used to keep the queen in the lower part where she will continue laying eggs to raise new brood, a worker only lives for 5 – 6 weeks in the summer so new bees are constantly being born, the queen can live for several years.


The new boxes contain the frames where the honey will be harvested, over the next few months the hives will be regularly inspected and the honey extracted, the bees are now very busy all over the gardens and meadow, more updates to follow!


Fresh New Potatoes are one of tastiest crops to grow at home, even if space is limited they can be grown in large containers or just a small area of your garden. 


Shop bought potatoes with small sprouts can be planted but it is always best to get started with seed potatoes, first they need “chitting” this means leaving them to sprout before planting. The small buds need to face up keeping them cool and dry, old egg boxes are ideal to store them in as they start to grow. 


When ready to plant dig over the ground to a depth of at least 8 inches, level and if dry give the soil a good water. They can be planted with a trowel but it is better to dig out a small trench 4 inches deep and the same wide. 


They will need “earthing up” so keep the rows at least 2 feet apart, and 1 foot between the tubers as you plant, gently push them into the bottom of the trench making sure most of the buds are at the top. Back fill the trench and gently firm the soil. 


The first shoots will take a while to appear and are vulnerable to frost, so on cold nights it is best to cover them over with any sort of material, although they will recover if damaged it does set them back so it is worth trying to protect them. 


As they grow it is important to keep “earthing up”, this means pulling the soil into mounds around the new growth, the buried stems will produce more and it stops any growing near the surface turning green. 


To grow in containers use the same method, the bigger the pot or trough the better, plant a few tubers and leave enough room to keep topping the pot up with compost as they grow. Containers will also need regular watering. 


Potatoes planted in March can usually be harvested in June, when the flowers start appearing that is good time to start checking for the first crop. 



If you're looking for ways to use up your sad looking vegetables and make your ingredients stretch further, why not make a tasty soup! Our Head Chef has sourced a Leek & Potato Soup Recipe which uses minimal ingredients, but you can add in as many different vegetables as you'd like.



50g butter

450g potatoes, peeled and cut into 1cm pieces (try Golden Wonders or Kerr Pinks)

1 small onion, cut the same size as the potatoes

450g white parts of leeks, sliced (save the green tops for another soup or stock)

850ml-1.2litres/1½-2pts light chicken or vegetable stock

142ml carton whipping cream

125ml full-fat milk


To finish:

the white part of 1 leek

a small knob of butter

finely chopped chives



1. Melt 50g butter in a heavy saucepan. When it foams, add 450g potatoes, cut into 1cm cubes, 1 small onion, cut the same as the potatoes, and 450g white parts of leeks, sliced and toss them in the butter until they are well coated.


2. Season well with salt and freshly ground pepper and toss again. Put a disc of greaseproof paper (called a cartouche by chefs) on top of the vegetables to keep in the steam), then cover the pan with its lid.


3. Cook over a gentle heat for 10 mins, or until the vegetables are soft but not coloured.


4. Uncover the pan and discard the paper. Pour in 850ml of the light chicken or vegetable stock, bring to the boil and simmer until the vegetables are just cooked – about 5 minutes. Do not overcook or the soup will lose its fresh flavour.


5. Purée in a blender until silky smooth, in batches if necessary, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Return the soup to a clean pan and stir in three quarters of a 142ml carton of whipping cream and 125ml full-fat milk.


6. To finish the soup, finely shred the white part of 1 leek and gently cook it in a small knob of hot butter for a few mins until it is softened but not coloured.


7. Reheat the soup to a gentle simmer (add some extra stock at this point if the soup is too thick for your liking), then pour into warmed bowls.


8. Drizzle the remaining cream over each serving, top with a little pile of buttered leeks and a scattering of chives and black pepper and serve at once.


This recipe has been sourced from:

Look out for our handy Potato Growing Guide this week!

The International Carrot Day or the Carrot Day is celebrated every year on 4th April and is the pinnacle for carrot lovers all around the world. It only seemed right to share our Head Gardener's Carrot Growing Guide with you!


Carrot Growing Guide


Fresh carrots from the garden are delicious and packed with goodness, with the weather slowly warming up now is great time to start thinking about the first sowing. We use a good disease resistant variety called “Eskimo F1” in the gardens, it can be sown early to be used for baby carrots or later in the summer as a main crop to be left in the ground over the winter months, Eskimo is also quite frost resistant.


If your ground is heavy and full of stones growing carrots can be quite tricky, they tend to “fang” as they grow instead of producing long straight roots, digging over the ground well before sowing will help, alternatively grow some in large pots or containers with a mix of sieved garden soil and potting compost.


For best results sow directly into the ground, taking out a shallow drill ¾ inch deep, seeds are best sown thinly to avoid congestion and having to thin them out, this helps reduce problems with carrot fly which is a common pest, rows can also be covered with fleece or try companion planting with Spring Onions, Garlic etc.


The seedlings will emerge in a few weeks, keep them watered as they start to grow, small weeds can be left in the rows to avoid disturbing the ground, larger ones should be removed firming the ground well after taking them out.


A sowing in early April should give a first crop in June, harvest by pulling up a few plants from all along the rows to give the rest more room to grow and keep sowing small amounts every few weeks, for a winter crop sow by the end of July, later sown crops are also less prone to common pests.


BBC Gardeners world website has some great tips on how to keep carrot fly away:




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